The Christmas Cactus, previously known as Epiphyllum bridgesii, hails from tropical regions of Central and South America. Renamed Schlumbergera buckleyi, this plant is part of a group of succulent cacti plants. It was also once identified as Ephiphyllum russellianum, adding to the name confusion. Sometimes called Schlumbergera truncata or Zygocactus in certain regions due to its flat, fleshy leaves with joints bearing flowers at the ends.
It’s vital to purchase these plants from reputable sellers as the names can vary, and misidentification, such as mistaking a Thanksgiving Cactus for a Christmas Cactus, can occur until they bloom, clarifying the species.
There are distinct characteristics that differentiate the three types of cacti – the shape of leaves, blooming periods, and flower types.
Exploring the world of Holiday Cacti reveals Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi ), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata ), and Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri ). Despite their striking similarities, each has unique traits that set them apart.
One key distinguishing feature among them is the shape of their leaves. The Thanksgiving Cactus boasts shield-shaped leaves with sharp hooks, while the Christmas Cactus displays softer, rounded leaves. In comparison, the Easter Cactus features rounded edges on its leaves.
These cacti bloom at different times of the year, aligning with their festive names. The Thanksgiving Cactus typically blooms about a month before the Christmas Cactus, while the Easter Cactus begins budding much later, usually around February.
Notably, the flowers of each cactus variety vary as well. The Christmas Cactus bears drooping blooms resembling those of a fuchsia, with anthers usually in shades of brown or purple. Colors range from red and pink to yellow and white. In contrast, the Thanksgiving Cactus showcases yellower anthers and blooms in shades like peach, orange-red, and purple.
The Easter Cactus stands out with its starburst-shaped flowers, distinctly different from the other types, and commonly found in hues of red, pink, orange, peach, and white.
Observing their growth patterns also offers clues to differentiate them. The Christmas Cactus starts upright, transitioning to a cascading habit as it matures. Meanwhile, the Thanksgiving Cactus maintains an upright growth, and the Easter Cactus cascades as it grows, though it remains smaller than the other two.
Planting
Establish the optimal growth conditions for a lasting presence of these plants in your home.
Originating from the tropical regions of Southeast Brazil, these succulents thrive in shaded areas under tree canopies, requiring high humidity and temperatures. While typically grown outdoors in USDA Zones 10 – 12, they can flourish indoors in cooler regions with proper temperature emulation.
Before introducing these low-maintenance plants to your space, ensure you understand and provide them with their specific growth requirements to enjoy their longevity in your home.
How to Grow
Should you decide to include a Christmas cactus in your plant collection, meeting their growth needs is paramount. By optimizing all aspects of their care and maintenance, you can ensure their successful growth. Let’s delve into common care practices for these plants.
Light
Optimal flowering occurs in bright light, while a shaded location is recommended during the dormant phase.
During blooming periods, these plants thrive in bright light, transitioning to darker settings in their dormant stages to rejuvenate. Excessive sunlight may lead to yellowing and hinder future flowering. In warmer climates, they can be placed outdoors in shaded areas or on patios during summer. When indoors, position them near east-facing windows or in well-lit rooms like bathrooms or kitchens, preventing direct harsh sunlight that could fade leaves.
WaterRemember to water the plant regularly while allowing the soil to dry out between watering sessions.
For this tropical plant, maintaining consistent moisture levels is crucial, but it’s equally important to let the soil have some dry periods between waterings. Avoid waterlogging the plant or letting it sit in water-filled trays, as its sensitive epiphytic roots can suffer. If you notice the plant beginning to shrivel, it’s a sign that it needs more water.
Remember to give the plant intervals to rest, particularly from February to March when keeping the soil somewhat dry is beneficial. Similarly, during the resting period from October to November, allow the soil to dry out more. Keep a close watch on the plant, ensuring it’s watered adequately during dry and hot weather.
Soil
Opt for well-drained soil with a pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.2 for this succulent.
When planting in pots, ensure the soil mix is well-draining. Improve drainage by combining potting soil with equal parts of materials like perlite or vermiculite. Consider using a specialized mix for succulents and cacti, ideally with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5 – 6.2. If required, add peat moss to the mix to lower the pH but avoid excessive moisture retention.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintain a temperature of around 70F for optimal growth with some tolerance between 60F to 70F. Avoid temperatures below 50F to prevent damage.
These plants thrive in temperatures around 70F but can handle variations between 60F and 70F. During resting periods, aim for temperatures of 55F to 60F; anything below 50F can be harmful. Sudden temperature changes may cause bud drop, impacting plant health.
To enhance humidity levels, employ pebble trays or a humidifier to mimic their favored tropical conditions. Prevent root rot by ensuring the plant container doesn’t sit in water.
Fertilizing
Provide a balanced liquid fertilizer during the flowering period as an additional magnesium boost can be beneficial.
Supplement these plants with extra magnesium by dissolving one teaspoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, applying monthly from spring to fall. During flowering, a balanced liquid fertilizer can aid growth. Be cautious not to over-fertilize to prevent root damage and hinder flowering.
Maintenance
Consider trimming some leaves in late spring to promote fresh growth and blooming.
To stimulate new growth and flowering in late spring, consider pruning sections of leaves on your Christmas cactus. Remember, more branches mean more flowers since blooms only emerge at the branch tips.
Utilize this pruning session to take cuttings for propagating new plants as well.
Regularly remove spent flowers to foster additional blooms. Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and give your plant a thorough cleanse if you detect any signs of infestation by sap-sucking insects. For severe pest issues, treat with insecticidal soap.
Ways to Encourage Blooming
Buds typically start appearing in November and bloom just in time for the festive season.
All Holiday Cacti are categorized as short-day plants, requiring shorter daylight periods in colder weather to bloom. Expose the plant to 12-24 hours of cool temperatures and darkness daily to trigger bud formation. This environment will prompt the plant to bloom at the appropriate time.
Expect teardrop buds to emerge in November, blooming throughout the holiday period until January. Typically, the plant necessitates 6-8 weeks of short, cool days to commence flowering naturally. If buds begin to drop, it could be due to drafts, high temperatures, direct sunlight, or overwatering.
While they can also bloom again in spring , the profusion of flowers won’t match the winter blooming. You can manipulate the plant to bloom in spring by imitating the 12-24 hours of cold and dark exposure.
Prior to this, snip off small half-inch segments to enhance blooming chances.
Reproduction Techniques
Regarding propagation methods, the common techniques for this beloved succulent involve either seeds or cuttings, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Let’s delve into these methods.
Producing New Plants from Cuttings
Plant the cuttings in a moist, well-drained propagating mix.
The most effective way to propagate a Christmas Cactus is through stem or leaf cuttings, ideally in early summer. Surprisingly, this favorite succulent can sprout from a single leaf.
Utilize sanitized, sharp shears to take cuttings, ensuring cleanliness to prevent disease spread among plants. Opt for stem cuttings that are at least 3 segments in length and allow them to air dry on paper for approximately 3-4 days to enable callusing at the cut ends.
Plant the cuttings in a moist mix of equal parts coconut coir and perlite for proper drainage. The coir retains moisture, ensuring the stems thrive during root formation. Insert the cuttings at least an inch deep.
For optimal results, plant three cuttings in a sufficiently large container to support growth. Enclose with a plastic bag secured with a rubber band to create a miniature ecosystem and maintain moisture for the cuttings. Regularly monitor progress, removing the bag once rooting occurs after a few weeks.
Growing from Seeds
During autumn, seed pods emerge and can be harvested once they transition to red.
Another method to propagate Christmas Cactus is through seeds. Seed pods typically form in fall and are ready for harvesting once they change from green to red .
To start, break open the pods, extract the brown seeds, and rinse off any pulp. Prepare a tray for planting using a blend of coconut coir and perlite to ensure proper drainage. Add the seeds to the mixture, and lightly cover them before providing adequate moisture.
For a successful germination process, it is suggested to use dampened vermiculite or sow the seeds in compost or prepared cactus mix. Place the seeds on the soil’s surface, gently pressing them down and covering them with a layer of vermiculite. Seal the container with a plastic bag to maintain moisture for germination, ensuring regular checks for sufficient moisture levels.
After approximately two weeks of germination, remove the plastic cover and either mist the seedlings daily or provide bottom watering. Make sure to remove any excess water to prevent root rot. Once the seedlings are mature enough, transplant them into separate pots for continued growth.
Repotting
It is advised to repot the Christmas cactus every three years for optimal growth.
Christmas Cacti thrive in slightly crowded conditions but benefit from fresh potting soil every three years. Repot in spring post-flowering season using terra cotta or clay pots to prevent root rot. Handle with care during repotting to avoid breakage of leaf segments, which can compromise future flowering.
Be cautious during the repotting process to minimize leaf and branch loss, as these directly influence the plant’s flowering capability, enhancing the aesthetic appeal.
Common Problems
While generally resilient to pests and diseases, Christmas cacti may face issues if not properly maintained, potentially leading to plant loss. Address these common problems promptly:
Overwatering
Root rot can develop due to excessive watering habits.
Overwatering can be detrimental to Christmas Cacti, potentially leading to root rot. Act promptly if symptoms like soft leaves and mushy roots appear. Repot, remove affected areas, and adjust watering practices to prevent further fungal issues.
Lack of Water
Insufficient watering can cause bud dropping and plant deterioration.
Inadequate watering can cause wilting, bud dropping, and eventual plant decline. Maintain adequate moisture levels and avoid prolonged dry spells, especially during flowering stages. Utilize bottom watering if signs of dehydration are evident.
Excessive Sunlight
Leaves turning reddish may indicate excessive sunlight exposure.
Reddish leaves signal excessive sunlight exposure, leading to potential discoloration and bleaching. Adjust the plant’s placement to a less sunny area to maintain vibrant foliage. Christmas Cacti thrive in bright, indirect light conditions, ensuring robust growth and blooming.
Mealybugs
If your plant shows signs of withering, examine it for mealybugs.
Noticing the red insects with white mildewy material on them means your succulent is under attack by mealybugs. These pests are consuming the plant, and prompt action is essential to prevent its demise. Treat the infestation using neem oil or insecticidal soap and be diligent in monitoring and repeating the treatment when necessary.
Aphids
To combat aphids, use soapy water or insecticidal soap to cleanse the plant.
Aphids, another plant-sucking insect, can impede plant growth by attacking new foliage. While beneficial predators like ladybugs aid in controlling these pests outdoors, indoors, you might need to manually remove the aphids or resort to insecticidal soap to manage their population.
Thrips
Identify and treat thrips by washing the plant and applying targeted treatment.
Thrips, small and hard-to-spot pests, damage plants by sucking their juices. Look for these pests by shaking a plant over a white sheet of paper to catch and identify them. Prune affected leaves, cleanse the plant with soapy water, and apply specialized treatment if necessary.
Spider Mites
Combat spider mites with insecticidal soap or commercial pesticides.
Spider mites, resembling tiny red spiders, are difficult to spot individually but leave telltale webbing on plants. Their damage manifests as discoloration, stunted growth, and webbing on the leaves, necessitating treatment with insecticidal soap or appropriate pesticides.
Fungus Gnats
Use sticky traps to deter fungus gnats attracted to moist soil.
Fungus gnats, lured by excess soil moisture, feed on fungi and plant roots. Employ sticky traps and consider repotting to eliminate eggs in the soil to manage these tiny flies effectively.
Frequently Asked Questions
With proper care, Christmas Cacti can live longer than a lifetime, sometimes over 100 years, becoming cherished heirlooms. Ensuring ideal conditions and promptly addressing pests is vital to their longevity.
To maintain your Christmas Cactus, continue removing spent flowers until the blooming cycle finishes. Then, lessen watering and prepare the plant for dormancy until it re-blooms in the spring.
From October onwards, expose the plant to at least 12 hours of darkness daily in a cool location to stimulate bud formation for the festive season. It requires about 6-8 weeks of chilly conditions and darkness to bloom abundantly in time.
If you live in USDA Zones 10 – 12 with warmer climate, outdoor planting under the shade of a tree or patio is possible. Avoid direct sunlight as it can harm the leaves. Given their origin in tropical regions, cold temperatures below 50F outdoors will be detrimental to their survival.
Final Thoughts
Understanding how to nurture these unique plants ensures they become a gratifying part of any indoor plant assortment. While most plants remain dormant, these vibrant blooms will illuminate your winter season.